Frequently Asked Questions...

Q-Maybe I'm missing it...but if the clutchtamer is physically attached to the clutch pedal...what happens when you up-shift? A- If you are using the clutch pedal during upshifts, the ClutchTamer will be active then as well. There is great benefit to initial slip on upshifts, as it reduces shock to the drivetrain (and tire) while minimizing loss of rpm between shifts. Remember, there's enough initial pressure dialed into the clutch to launch the car from a dead stop, the delay is only on how fast additional clutch pressure comes in. Same applies on upshifts where the clutch is used. If you have a lower capacity transmission like a T5 where 3rd gear is a weak point, having an active clutch buffer on the shifts is a huge plus. During slower casual shifts, you won't even know it's there. Another benefit to using the ClutchTamer on clutch assisted shifts?- it actually reduces the time it takes to complete a WOT shift. This happens because the damped clutch pedal does not have enough time to return all the way to the top before the shift. This effectively reduces overall pedal travel necessary to complete the shift, as it eliminates the need to push the pedal back thru all that ineffective deadband/freeplay travel near the top of it's stroke.

Q- Interesting. So you just side step the clutch and let the "tamer" do the rest? A- yep.

Q- Is a special clutch required?... A- your clutch still needs to be able to hold more torque than your engine can produce. After meeting your clutch capacity requirements, extending the duration of clutch slip does not necessarily mean you will experience more actual clutch wear. In fact if you are currently launching at 5000+ to avoid a bog, it's very likely that adding the ClutchTamer could actually reduce your clutch wear. The big advantage of our ClutchTamer for a street/strip car is that it allows using a conventional style pressure plate, but low pressure / slipping last for only a short period of time. SoftLoc style racing clutches are designed to use very low base pressures which allow the clutch to initially slip, then grab, as the sintered iron lining heats up and the "Long" style pressure plate's centrifugal assist comes in. The problem with that on a street/strip car is that when you are cruising down the hiway at lower RPM in high gear or even overdrive, there is little centrifugal assist. The clutch lining also cools off, so the clutch will likely start slipping again as soon as you get into the throttle even a little. Getting under the car and adding base pressure is almost necessary before going back out on the highway to minimize additional wear. If you would rather adjust your street/strip car's clutch from the driver's seat instead of climbing under it to crank the base pressures up and down to make the transition from street to strip, the ClutchTamer might be your answer. Our ClutchTamer works with cable clutches as well. One difference between some hydraulic and mechanical clutches is that some mechanical clutches (like the older musclecars) are not self adjusting, so they would need to monitor/adjust freeplay to keep things consistent for cutting a good lite. If you own a late model Mustang, our system is completely compatible with it's stock self adjusting mechanism.