Frequently Asked ClutchTamer Questions...

Q- I don't want my clutch to slip after the shifts. Do you make a version of the original ClutchTamer that dis-engages after launch?
A- We do not, and there is a reason for that!When properly adjusted, our ClutchTamer product is fully active during launch and also active, but to a lesser degree, after all shifts made using the clutch pedal. This reduces the peak impact load on components, which in-turn elevates the amount of power your transmission/drivetrain can handle before reaching the breaking point. Here's an example of a dragstrip pass where only the launch was controlled by a ClutchTamer, but the shifts were not...















Notice that during launch, this 'tamer controlled clutch only hit the transmission's input shaft with 672ftlbs of torque. But then after the shifts with no active 'tamer to soften the clutch hit, the hit on the transmission's input shaft skyrocketed to as high as 1583ft/lbs after the shift into 3rd gear!!! It's not the power the engine is making that kills drivetrain components, the actual problem is the torque spike created when the clutch pulls the engine down too fast!!!
When launching a ClutchTamer equipped car, you dump the clutch from the pedal stop. Then because the clutch pedal isn't pushed all the way to the pedal stop for the shifts, the ClutchTamer doesn't fully reset. This allows you to get all the clutch slip you need to avoid a bog during launch, and still protect the transmission/drivetrain after the shifts as well, without having an excessive amount of clutch slip after the shifts.
Beyond the need to protect the drivetrain from torque spikes, most guys have not yet figured out the car will also be quicker with a little clutch slip after the shifts. Especially when running on no-prep and back of the track events! Not only quicker, but also far less likely to knock the tires loose. Fast cars with clutchless transmissions and adjustable clutches actually loosen the clutch enough to get about 300-500rpm of slip after the shifts. Without slip after the shifts, the engine gets pulled down farther, forcing it climb out of a deeper hole before it gets back to making power. For example, lets say an engine makes 425ftlbs from 4500-5500rpm, trans ratios are 3.17/1.96/1.34/1.00, and the car exits 1st gear @ 7820rpm. With no clutch slip at all, the ratios dictate the engine would fall all the way back to 4835rpm where it is only making 391hp at most. Real world data for my example shows the clutch actually slipped for 0.163sec after the shift, which gave the car more time to gain speed before the clutch locked up, resulting in the engine only getting pulled down to 5132rpm. So instead of the engine beginning its 2nd gear pull from 4835rpm with only 391hp, with a little slip after the shift the engine was able to start that 2nd gear pull from 5132rpm with 415hp.

Q- Will I have to dis-connect the ClutchTamer for casual driving?
A- No. The 'tamer will have no effect on your ability to feather the clutch pedal during casual driving, you won't even notice it is there

Q- Is a special clutch required when using a ClutchTamer?... A- No. Extending clutch slip duration at the track does not necessarily mean you will experience more actual clutch wear. In fact if you are currently launching at high rpm to avoid a bog while slipping the clutch manually with your foot, it's very likely that adding a ClutchTamer will actually reduce wear/tear on your clutch. A big advantage for our drag/drive customers is that the ClutchTamer allows you to side-step the typical hassle of constantly switching back/forth between street/strip adjustable clutch settings. SoftLoc style racing clutches are designed to use very low base pressures which allow the clutch to initially slip, then grab, as the sintered iron lining heats up and the "Long" style pressure plate's centrifugal assist comes in. The problem with that on a street/strip car is that when you are cruising down the hiway at lower RPM in high gear or even overdrive, there is little centrifugal assist. The clutch lining also cools off, so the clutch will likely start slipping again as soon as you get into the throttle even a little. Getting under the car and adding base pressure is almost necessary before going back out on the highway to minimize additional wear. If you would rather adjust your street/strip car's clutch from the driver's seat instead of climbing under it to crank the base pressures up and down to make the transition from street to strip, the ClutchTamer might be your answer. Our ClutchTamer works with cable clutches as well. One difference between some hydraulic and mechanical clutches is that some mechanical clutches (like the older musclecars) are not self adjusting, so they would need to monitor/adjust freeplay to keep things consistent for cutting a good lite. If you own a late model Mustang, our system is completely compatible with it's stock self adjusting mechanism.